A chill wind descends from the lofty meadows of Gulmarg. It carries the scent of those same wildflowers that captivated noble Sultan Yusuf Khan six hundred years ago. It sweeps across the mirror surface of Dal Lake, gently rocking the stately cedar houseboats that recall the elegance of the Raj. Busy shikaras, those bustling workboats of this Venice of the Himalayas, ply their trade along watery avenues bordered by tall deciduous trees whose leaves and blossoms give accent to these shining lanes.
In Srinagar’s marketplace the vendors’ calls exaggerate the splendour of their wares. The cacophony is joined by the muezzin calling the faithful to the ancient mosque Jama Masjid, where Sultan Sikandar sought favour with his god. The market’s wooden buildings have a worn and beaten look: the price of continuing war and ethnic violence engraved on their facades.
Far above the valley, on the fabled road to Ladakh, the golden fields of mustard wave a tribute to the snow-clad guardians of this troubled valley: the mountains wait, and dream of peace. Glacial streams leap noisily to strengthen roots of mighty chinar trees, whose ancient spires daily fall to economic growth. Across the valley the Nanga Parbat mountains swallow a golden sun, and darkness claims its due.
After the holy city of Haridwar the dusty plains are left behind. In the distance the foothills climb to the top of the world, and here, like an Intercessor between the gods and man, nestles Rishikesh. Embracing Mother Ganga this religious fantasy come true hosts graceful temples, garish artifacts, peaceful ashrams.
The gentle sweetness of charas fills the air, and the eyes of sadhus, and other holy men, testify to the effectiveness of their communion. Avatars walk the narrow streets, surrounded by the swirling notes of chants and mantras, pleased with this bustling invocation of the ancient Way.
The ghats are busy, confirming the endless dance of Natraj, with the fire and smoke symbolising destruction and rebirth, while the Ganges welcomes the ashen remnants of this cycle of the Wheel. Floating candles in small clay boats illuminate the river’s gentle flow, bearing sparks of Brahman home.